Page 50 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.3.28
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Power Looms and Handlooms

Jacquards used in weaving

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain jacquard loom
• list various types of jacquards used in weaving
• explain single lift, single cylinder jacquard its parts and working mechanism.

Introduction: The Jacquard loom is one of the • Uses a microprocessor and electronic solenoids
most important inventions in the weaving industry. It instead of punched cards.
revolutionized fabric production by allowing complex • Can handle thousands of warp threads individually.
patterns such as brocades, damasks, tapestries, and
other decorative designs to be woven automatically. The • Allows easy pattern change via software programs.
Jacquard mechanism was invented by Joseph Marie • High productivity and flexibility.
Jacquard of France in 1804.
A According to mounting
A Jacquard loom is a type of weaving loom equipped
with a Jacquard mechanism, which uses punched cards • Single-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard
or electronic control to individually lift and lower warp - Each hook controls one warp thread.
threads for creating complex patterns in woven fabrics.
- Only one movement (lift or down) per hook at
1 Types of jacquard looms: Jacquard looms are a time.
classified based on their mechanism, number of hooks,
and control system. - Simple construction but slower.
A According to control mechanism • Double-Lift Single-Cylinder Jacquard
• Mechanical Jacquard Loom (Fig 1) - Two knives lift alternately; one hook can be
lifted in both directions.
- Uses punched cards and needles to select warp
threads. - Reduces strain on warp and allows higher
speed.
- Operated mechanically with the help of cams
and levers. • Double-Lift Double-Cylinder Jacquard
- Suitable for traditional designs and small-scale - Two sets of hooks and knives operate
production. alternatively.

Fig 1 - Used for high-speed and heavy fabric
production.
• Cross-Border Jacquard
- Designed to produce border designs separately
from the main body of the fabric.
3 Main parts of jacquard loom: A jacquard machine
consists of the following main parts:

Needle: is one of the main part of a jacquard. The
horizontal needle is bent at a point to secure the vertical
hooks. Eight different bent position in the needle will
be required by an eighth row jacquard machine. The
2 Electronic jacquard loom (Fig 2) needle head rests with their head on the needle board
projecting about 4 mm towards the cylinder. At the rear
Fig 2
end of the needle is a small helical spring contained in
the spring-box.
Spring-box: the rear end of the needle is passed into the
spring-box and the loop in the needle permits a flat wire
to be inserted to secure the needle in position. Pressing
the needle at the head compresses the spring and on
removal of the pressure the spring pushes the needle
back to its natural position.

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